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June 1, 2012
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NEW DIRECTION

It’s easy to spot a pair of Nicholas Kirkwood heels. The sculptural silhouettes and graphic details are instantly eye-catching. After studying at Cordwainers and Central St Martins, Kirkwood, 30, burst onto the scene in 2005 with a conceptual collection that mixed dizzying heel heights with architectural angles. Find out which Hollywood A-lister is his biggest fan and what’s next for the eponymous label…



IN CONVERSATION WITH NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

Why shoes?
“After I left art school I went to work for milliner Philip Treacy. Philip was doing extraordinary things with hats, Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan were pushing the boundaries in ready-to-wear, but shoes weren’t as adventurous. I wanted to create something different.”

How would you describe your label?
“Feminine, architectural and adventurous.”

Who is the Nicolas Kirkwood woman?
“She’s confident and doesn’t want to be wearing what everybody else is – she likes to have bit a fun.”

What inspired your new collection?
“An idealistic view of the 1920s. It was everything from Jean Cocteau’s sketches to bouclés that reminded me of Coco Chanel – it’s a modern take on nostalgia.”

Your favorite style?
“I love the flats with the sketch detailing. Flats are a relatively new thing for me and this is the first time that I have decorated them. They’re fun and easy to wear.”

What else does a Nicholas Kirkwood girl wear?
“She will dress from the ground up – the focus is going to be on the shoes. So something with clean lines, but feminine at the same time.”

You have a number of A-list devotees. Any stand-out moments so far?
“When Sarah Jessica Parker was snapped wearing my heels four times in one week.”

Who you would particularly love to see wearing your designs?
“Tilda Swinton; she’s got such a unique look and a striking presence.”

What’s next?
“Handbags. I want them to be quite classic, but they will definitely have an architectural element.”

If you weren’t in fashion what would you be doing?
“When I was younger I wanted to be a rock star but clearly that wasn’t going to happen!”

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